Des camions et des hommes – Réunion / Cap-Vert : les routes aux mille virages

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Les îles de la Réunion et de Santo Antao, au Cap-Vert, possèdent des routes qui les sillonnent de façon très souvent plus sinueuses que droites.

On the volcanic islands and the roads that crisscross the slopes of ancient volcanoes are rarely built in a straight line. Jean-Bernard is a driver on the slopes of Reunion Island. Faced with incessant rains, he must avoid every day the collapses of the day before.

Klisman drives on steep slopes from the island of Santo Antão, in the Cape Verde Islands archipelago. For his part, he doesn’t fight the rain, but the harsh drought which hits his neck of the woods. Twice a week, he must refuel populations in water. Two very different islands, but so close by their topography.

Despite the 8000 kilometers which separate them, the two drivers have one thing in common: steering wheel in hand, they must take 1000 turns in the day. We are on Reunion Island. Located in the Indian Ocean, the island is characterized by a tropical climate, hot and humid.

When it starts to rain in Reunion, all traffic is disrupted. This volcanic island is bordered by steep cliffs. When it rains, violent waterfalls suddenly form. The rock is very crumbly and large blocks of stone can fall on the roads and make them quite dangerous. On the island, one road in particular is recognized

As being one of the most dangerous, the one that connects Saint-Louis and Cilaos. This road of more than 30 kilometers criss-crosses a volcanic cirque where the turns follow one another. In rainy weather, a block of stone can hide behind each of them. There are falls…. It was during the night.

It rained heavily all night. It’s been raining for five days without interruption on Reunion Island. Every day, the landslides and numerous rock falls occur on the road. There is always danger on this road. Don’t think about the danger, if you think about it, we won’t go on the road.

It’s on this dangerous road that Jean-Bernard works. Yet he does not fear to take her son to school. The road to Cilaos regularly suffers damage. During the rainy season, road workers work every day. On the other side of the African continent, in Cape Verde, the Corda road also suffers a lot of damage.

Half of the road collapse over time. The walls fall especially when it rains. We must constantly clean the road to avoid accidents. Klisman has no other choice than take this route every day. It carries a liquid very rare here, water. The last time it rained, it was in November.

We have two seasons in Santo Antão, that is to say in Cape Verde. There is the rainy season and the drought season. There we are in the season drought, which is the longest. The rain begins in August and ends in November. So for eight months, it doesn’t rain in Santo Antão.

In Cape Verde, the islands are also of volcanic formation, but the archipelago is located on the northern boundary areas of tropical rain. It undergoes throughout the year major periods of drought. We are on the Island of Santo Antão, the northernmost of the entire archipelago.

The two main cities are connected by an exceptional road, the Corda road, entirely hand paved In the 60s. This road winds about thirty kilometers the island’s cirques. She joins more 1500 meters above sea level the village of Pico Da Cruz, where residents do not have access to water.

The only way for them to live here, It’s Klisman’s tanker truck. We need water. He saves us from going buy water from the fountain. We thank him for allowing us to have water at home. In the meeting, the rains have calmed down a little.

It’s six o’clock in the morning, Jean-Bernard is preparing to go down to Saint-Louis. It is not him who starts the truck this morning, it’s his son Jordane. We’re ready to leave. Jordan goes to school in St. Louis. This morning it’s raining. He comes with his father on the road to avoid

To wait for the school bus under the rain. However, Jordane is not reassured to get into his father’s vehicle. He knows the road is dangerous and gives the alert at the slightest turn. He is rather afraid. On this side, it’s not impressive. Jordane is right to be anxious.

The road is so narrow that vehicles do not always meet there. To pass in a truck tunnel, it is better to be an experienced driver. There we are at the first tunnel. There are three tunnels like this one on the road to Cilaos. There are plenty of difficulties.

When we take this road early morning, it’s better to be wide awake. No, that won’t happen. We can try to pass with someone we know, but he’s a tourist. What is Zoreil? A tourist. Jean-Bernard is one of the truck drivers who knows his way best. He travels it throughout the year.

He can better than anyone assess the dangers that lurk behind every bend. There are at least 500 turns. By counting the curves, that’s 500 turns. If I go back and forth three times… I don’t think about all that. Going over scree doesn’t please me, but there is a road.

It will clear quickly, these screes are not that huge. Huge or not, the landslides are regular at Reunion and you have to be very careful. Few years ago, the road was cut during many days. A whole section of mountain has collapsed, completely covering the roadway and causing victims.

The dangers of this road are part of Jean-Bernard’s life. It’s his daily life and he accepts it. He loves this road and he knows it by heart. I’m going to take my truck. I always leave it lock up in this garage. As it is a means of transport drinking water for the population,

You have to leave it safe and prevent someone malicious may pollute or contaminate water. My truck can also be used if needed to the city firefighters, if a fire ever breaks out. Klisman carefully checks his truck before committing on the steep Corda road. His truck was given to him by an aid project

To Swedish development. Klisman takes care of it like the apple of his eye. When supervisors told us the good news, like what, my truck was the best preserved of all services water reservoir of Cape Verde, I felt very happy. This meant that they were grateful for my work, of my skills.

Me, as a truck driver, I felt very proud, very proud that they know that we take care of our work equipment. For Klisman, it’s an honor and great pride to drive this truck, a truck celebrating today his 20 years of good and loyal service. All that, thanks to impeccable maintenance of its driver.

Arriving at the coast, Klisman takes the paved road. She will lead him at more than 1500 meters above sea level and make him take a very large number of turns. On this road, we do about 35 kilometers to go to Pico Da Cruz, that’s to say, about an hour and a half.

Here I don’t know exactly how many turns there are. I know there are at least 400. This is the journey we take every time when we are going to deliver water in Pico Da Cruz. Take this road, it’s easier and closer than take the new road which goes around the coastline. Every week,

Klisman must supply water the inhabitants of the mountains. Right now, the island is going through such a drought that he has to go there twice a week. I’m going to stop there, higher up, at a friend’s house. I fill him with two cans of water every time I pass here.

He is a very nice person for whom I have a great friendship. Her name is Mantona. She is the mother of the heart of all drivers. On the paved road, before arriving at the village, Klisman stops at people’s houses which he knows lacks water. Hi Mantona! Hello Klisman!

How are you ? – Of course. Everything is fine ? Bring me the other can, we will fill them at the same time. Here he is expected as the messiah, he comes to deliver the inhabitants of their water shortage. Mantona lives here, with all his family, his daughter, his son-in-law and his grandchildren.

She earns her living thanks to the Corda route, since she sells to passers-by, the products of his small vegetable garden. Without Klisman and without his water, none of this would be possible. When he arrives, it’s a ray of sunshine which crosses Mantona’s house. That the Virgin Mary gives you his blessing

So that you are a very happy man. The blessing is a tradition of our country. It is practiced in all the Cape Verde Islands. It’s a very old tradition practiced by our ancestors. May God accompany you on the road. Klisman hits the road again.

He has many turns to take before arriving at Pico Da Cruz. We are now halfway through. It’s time to do A short break. It’s a ritual for Jean-Bernard. Every morning he takes his breakfast here, at Petit Serré. Chocolate bread and orange juice,

Simple things, but that his son really likes to share with him. If he didn’t love, he wouldn’t have come down with me. As he loves the truck, he takes the opportunity to go down. Jordane savors these little moments spent with his father. He knows that the job he does is far from easy.

I am proud of my father who is a carrier. I like this. Everything my dad does is great. I love my job, I love the road, I love trucks. When we love something, we are always proud. Jordane likes trucks with their advantages and their disadvantages.

We will remember, first of all to start, with those from Saint-Denis. These saints are always overwhelmed, but the traffic, and then we count the coastal road, traffic always shifts to the sea side, between Saint-Denis and the procession. News on the radio are not good. Due to heavy rainfall,

Lots of traffic lanes are closed. A few kilometers away, a road was even washed away by the waves. Jordane is starting to get stressed. He knows that the cut road will cause big traffic jams at the entrance of the city. This morning, if he arrives late for school,

The doors of the establishment will remain closed. I will be late. If the gate is closed, asks to enter. It’s not your fault, there were problems on the road. Jean-Bernard does not arrive to reassure his son. Jordan knows that whatever the road conditions, all the students in his school must be on time.

It’s rare that he arrives late. I think he’ll let him in. He will explain himself. He’s old enough to explain. Jean-Bernard believes that Jordane has a chance to be able to attend his classes. He will have to wait until the end of the day to be clear about it.

The clouds hang over the island of Santo Antão, but without ever pouring a single drop of rain. Klisman climbs higher and higher at altitude to get in the village of Pico Da Cruz. It is eagerly awaited by the inhabitants, who have practically no water left. All the villagers brought their own water containers.

They lined them up wisely next to each other. It’s not Klisman who will fill them. He rather takes care to replenish the collective tank. Perfect. Thanks to the truck’s engine, the water will be pumped to the tank installed on the roof of a building. It is then the municipality who will take care

Of individual distribution. The two municipal buildings have their own tank. The second is located at the village primary school. These are the sixth grade students. I am the teacher. The professor has been teaching for 20 years. Thanks to Klisman’s service, students can stay study in the village.

This is what we come from to put in the tank. We will use this water for cooking. At the moment there is no tank for toilets. A tank must be installed for use by students. Here, the students live like anyone where else in the world,

With the difference that they know better than anyone, the value of water. Wait, let me put it at the top. Nando, watch out for the stones. In the pipe, there are at least five liters of water left. Klisman established a ritual with the students.

After filling the tank, they must recover this precious water with the help of Klisman. School is over and the students go home after having a little fun on the way back. Here, solidarity is essential. Before letting Klisman go, the villagers all want give him a little gift.

Since the surroundings are rich in trees, we offer precious dry wood in Klisman. It’s a gift that my friend gives me. They are happy when I come to Pico Da Cruz. I am given different things: cheese, things for my mother. I thank them. A stone was lodged between the tires,

You have to remove it, otherwise the tire may burst. For this reason, you have to remove it as soon as possible. Very good, thank you very much Carlos, thank you for your help. I did not do anything. Come on, hold my hand. Very good, thank you for everything. You go away ?

I have to go home, but I will come back. Go to sleep, it’s late. OK see you soon. Klisman will take a whole day to do these 60 kilometers. It’s only after dark that he will return home, in the town of Paul. Bends, Jean-Bernard will have to take several.

He has just loaded ten tonnes of cement, the maximum authorized load to take the Cilaos road. To reassemble this load, he must take all possible precautions. I am obliged to attach, because there are too many turns, the cement risks tipping. That’s why I’m holding on a little more straps. Bye.

I have plenty of time today. I am not in a hurry. You should never be in a hurry. Never be in a hurry, it’s Jean-Bernard’s life insurance. For him, it’s better to ride slowly, but surely. We have about 1h15 or 1h10. The rain begins to fall again on Cilaos.

You have to stay attentive braking distances and the many strictures all along the road. It’s the problem of no June in because it is the vehicle. The 19-ton truck passes to the nearest millimeter in the tunnel. No question of touching the walls, otherwise the truck could be found completely stuck in the tunnel.

Jean-Bernard is used to it. He has his own technique to be sure never touch the rock. I lean on my side. I don’t look the other way. Jean-Bernard finally sees The end of the tunnel, but not the end of the road. On this road, each turn must be negotiated with caution,

And leads to another tunnel. To cross this tunnel, there aren’t really any rules. Everything happens down to the millimeter. The priority is the one who goes first. A curiosity that stuns all the passing tourists. Jean-Bernard passed without incident, but not always when drivers ignore how to share the road.

People who know the road, give way, people who don’t know the road, do not give way. When things go well, the drivers thank each other with a blast of the horn, a polite dialogue and courtesy. Jean-Bernard arrives in Cilaos. He will deliver the goods at his client’s,

Who is happy to have found a reliable driver for his business. Five years ago, no one wanted to go up to Cilaos. It is a local carrier, so it’s better that he is here in Cilaos. He doesn’t live downstairs, because sometimes on the road, it’s not easy. For me, today, he’s a partner

And we work in a spirit of partnership. Goula and Jean-Bernard have known each other since childhood. Trust is essential between the two men. One is the only hardware store, the other is the only driver heavyweight of the city. They have no other choice than relying on each other.

It’s time for Jean-Bernard to make another round trip. To be profitable, it must make at least two per day. Direction Saint-Louis. Jean-Bernard arrives at the exact moment where Jordan leaves school. A question burns on his lips: was he able to enter school despite being late?

I was 15 minutes late, but they let me in. I did the check, it went well. I got a sixteen and a half. Jordane is good at his studies and often gets good grades. This is an essential condition So he can realize your dream of being truck driver like his father.

I would like to be a heavy goods vehicle instructor. I like it and I would like to continue doing it. Before becoming a truck driver, Jordane will have to wait until he turns 18 to get your heavy goods vehicle license and until he turns 21, to be able to drive on the road.

In the meantime, he has fun with his father to estimate the weight of their future loading and place bets. Jean-Bernard must come up from the sand, but he notices that the backhoe loader is far from ten tons which he has the right to transport. Now it’s time for the bet.

I think it’s between 9 tons 700 and 9 tons 800. About 10 tons. 18 tons 480, minus the 9 tonnes 320 of the truck, the result is… There are 9 tons 160. Nobody won, but everyone is happy. Father and son can go home quietly.

This morning, Klisman has water again to be delivered to the inhabitants of the mountains. Do not fail in your duty is a matter of honor for him. But this morning, pipes patched up with wire can be very capricious. Everything is in order. The truck is full with its 11,000 liters of water.

Klisman can start his tour again. OK see you soon ! I’m going to Pico Da Cruz. I take this opportunity to stop in a house where my girlfriend lives and a friend of mine. I bring them some fish, it’s a gift. This is the mountain. I live near the sea.

I bring them fish. He eats them with potatoes, zucchini, cassava. Are you doing well ? Here, I brought you something. It’s fish from Paul’s market. I pass often. My friendship with this young woman turned into love. I am always very happy to bring water to the community of Pico Da Cruz.

I take this opportunity to come see my girlfriend, and his family, who is also very important to me. She is a pretty girl. I love her so much and she loves me too. I would like to spend my life with her, have children, a family. I love her so much.

I will pick up a coffee later. Klisman leaves again, but he’s already thinking about next time where he can go a little time with his girlfriend. The next morning, we find Jean-Bernard and Jordane. Today they are gone earlier than the day before, because Jean-Bernard is very worried facing the state of the road.

There may be falling rocks on the road. Jean-Bernard knows that the more rain last a long time, plus the blocks that can falling on the road are big. He has already had the experience on very exposed sections of road. It happened to me only huge blocks, at least twenty kilos fall before me.

Just when they fell, they came out on the road, to fall into the river. I assure you that seeing this, It still gives you a bit of a thrill. The road passes below the mountain. When it rains heavily, it’s windy and it’s really dangerous. Since we passed last night, they cleared the road

And at the end of the evening, it’s going to fall on the road. There can be stones on the road. Jean-Bernard was right. The blocks that fell last night are getting bigger and bigger. A block of almost a ton fell right in the middle of his path.

Météo France ensures that the weather will improve today, But rains of two meters of water have fallen since Monday… On the radio, Jean-Bernard and Jordane learn that a larger block almost caused a tragedy a few kilometers away. We have just been informed that a block fell into the left lane

In the reduced ways of the island, 100 meters before the dense hills. No cars were hit… At seven in the morning, a block of two cubic meters, broke down the coastal roadway during peak periods. The block fell right in front of a motorist. By miracle, she escaped unscathed,

But she suffered a violent nervous shock. Jean-Bernard and Jordane arrive in Saint-Louis. This time they are ahead. Jordane leaves her father with smile. Jean-Bernard changes trucks. It must transport agglomerations for the construction of a bungalow. To do this, he uses his old truck which has a crane.

Here we go again for 30 kilometers of turns, rain, tunnel, scree and horns. The routine for Jean-Bernard. Arrived in Cilaos, Jean-Bernard don’t waste time, because he is expected by his client. Its role in the city is essential. Of course, it is essential for the construction of houses. No towns, no houses.

It is necessary to transport agglomerations to Cilaos so that the house can be built. Here, bungalows have been made for seasonal workers. Yes, during the week or per month too. Jean-Bernard plays an essential role in the economy of Cilaos. Here the main activity is tourism.

We need to accommodate the many tourists who come to hike there. Jean-Bernard leaves for his second round trip of the day. Arriving in Saint-Louis, he passes pick up her son Jordane from school. He is delighted to be able to return at home with his father.

Return to the parking lot for pick up his newer truck from Ben. For the next load, Jean-Bernard leaves his son move the truck on contractor parking. Jordane doesn’t have to be told twice, but his father doesn’t take his eyes off him. Jean-Bernard is attentive at the slightest gesture of his son. It’s normal.

He hopes that Jordane benefits from his experience and one day become the best driver throughout Reunion Island. Jordane and her father return home. The road is strewn Catholic icons, which recalls religious fervor inhabitants of the Cilaos cirque. In Cape Verde, religion also holds a place of first choice.

This morning, the inhabitants of the archipelago celebrate Saint Joseph’s Day in homage to the protectors workers. The majority of Cape Verdeans live on fishing products. Today, every villager therefore made an offering to Saint-Joseph. The goods collected will be sold for the benefit of the association village fishermen. Auction. It’s a good cassava.

Only dry fish is missing to make lunch. This red yam weighs more than a kilo. Klisman does not intend to miss this annual procession. Religion makes integral part of his life. Mass brings me spiritual life. That’s why that I always attend mass. For me it’s the scene the most important of the festival.

Which brings all these people partying, first of all it’s mass. That’s why I come there too. After mass, we are going to party. I’m going to have fun with my friends, We’re going to dance until very late tonight. The whole afternoon is dedicated in the drumming competition, dance and capoeira.

Everyone is having a great time. This party is of great importance. It allows us to bring together all the villagers and surrounding villagers. It will last until dawn. It’s the weekend. The sun finally appears in the Cilaos cirque. Today, Jean-Bernard will not get behind the wheel of his truck.

If anyone lives here and don’t work, I think it’s not obvious. It’s true that you can get bored here. There are many people in Cilaos who left the circus because of that. If you like sports, We’re not bored. We can take our bag, go hiking. Then, if we work on site,

For the people who work here, it’s okay. But otherwise, I think… But there are a lot of people who love Cilaos. As I sit all week, I need to stretch myself a little bit on the weekend, but otherwise, most of the time, we escape for a little bit for a change.

We have a view of Cilaos. On all Cilaos, we can see Saint-Pierre from here. Bras Sec is at Rope. We discover the Cilaos road, the entrance to the tunnel. You can see everything from here. I go to a farmer, who grows lentils and sells them.

We do not find any elsewhere than in Cilaos. I will take the Cilaos lens for this afternoon. Here, Cilaos lentils are a real source of pride for the residents. The unique terroir of the circus gives them an unparalleled taste. Still at work. Yes, still at work. When you eat lentils with pork ribs

Or smoked sausages, this has nothing to do with with imported lenses. It’s a shame that we cannot produce more to export more to mainland France, because in Reunion, there is still a big application for the Cilaos lens. After stopping at the store, Jean-Bernard is expected by his wife

To quickly prepare the meal before everyone sits down at the table. Thanks, have a good day ! Bye. Lens for this afternoon. Odile now gets to cooking. Prepare the lentils, particularly those of Cilaos, it’s his specialty. The lentils must be sorted first. I let it soak about 20 minutes,

And then we do that afterwards with a little bit of garlic, a clove of garlic and a small piece of onion. And a little bit of turmeric, and it works. We put all that. In terms of cooking, it’s creamy and it’s finer. The grains are smaller compared to imported lenses.

In terms of cooking, In ten minutes, it’s ready. No, it’s good, it’s impeccable! I’m going to add salt. Great, once a week, the children like it. Compared to other grains, they prefer lentils. It’s good ? Yes, mom, it’s okay. Their rougail sausage is accompanied by Cilaos lentils.

This dish, typically Creole, unanimously brings happiness from everyone. Bon appetit Medina! – THANKS. Enjoy your food ! – Enjoy your food ! Jean-Bernard and Klisman are very attached to their land. In Cape Verde, the flagship product, it’s rum, which we call here the grogue. Today it is also the weekend for Klisman.

He takes the opportunity to find his old friend Marcos, grower producer. It’s me, Klisman. How are you ? – It’s good and you ? GOOD. When Klisman comes to visit Marcos, one of his friend’s first gestures is to offer him a glass of grogue. It’s good !

He lives at the bottom of one of the valleys the greenest on the island. Thanks to the generous source which is there, he can easily cultivate sugar cane. In the Marcos distillery, we make the grogue of generation in generation and in a completely artisanal way. The producer is particularly proud to press again

His sugar cane with donkeys. Our ancestors said: It is the visiting card of our country, mainly from the island of Santo Antão. This is where we made the best grogue in Cape Verde, more especially, that which is manufactured traditionally with donkeys. Cane syrup is well fermented? Yes, it is well fermented.

He is ready. Now we can do the grogue. Marcos produces thanks to his passion, one of the best grogue on the island. Everything is done on site, cane cultivation, until final distillation. It’s my job, it’s my livelihood, and I do it with pleasure.

It is also an old tradition which I am trying to save. For two generations, I am one of the last to press again with donkeys on the island. I find it important to maintain this. I sell my grogue to bar owners.

I sell jerry cans of five, ten, or 20 liters, depending on demand. I don’t sell it in bottles. No question for Marcos to let Klisman go hungry. They cook every lunch for its employees, Klisman is therefore naturally invited to share their meal, a Creole stew with goat meat. That’s enough, that’s good.

Here, your plate. It’s very good. THANKS. The week starts again for Jean-Bernard and Klisman. At the wheel of their truck, they will have to start again what they did the previous week. Like a clock that never stops, they are going to take their turn one after the other. An eternal beginning again.

However, every day is different. Jean-Bernard and Klisman never get bored. These are two drivers who don’t know each other. However, they have one thing in common: they are happy to borrow day after day, their road with 1000 turns.